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Fashion terms explained: what's behind organic, recycled and labels

ORGANICATION editorial teamUpdated: 16.10.20265 min read
Fashion terms explained: what's behind organic, recycled and labels

You'll read "sustainable fashion" on labels, in shops and in adverts. But the term has no legal definition. To help you put claims into context, we explain the common terms here, the criteria behind them and the labels that can actually be verified.

At a glance

  • "Sustainable fashion" is an umbrella term with no legally defined meaning.
  • Specific details are what count: material, certificate, place of production.
  • Labels such as GOTS, OCS, GRS, RCS or RWS each verify different things.

What the term means

"Sustainable fashion" usually refers to approaches intended to reduce the impact of textile production on the environment and people. This can start with the fibre, continue through dyeing and sewing and extend to the question of how long a garment is worn.

Because the term is so broad, on its own it says little. Two pieces with the same advertising promise can be made very differently. So pay less attention to the buzzword and more to what specifically lies behind it.

The EU has created clear rules for this: general environmental claims such as "eco-friendly" or "green" without recognised proof are no longer permitted. Sustainability labels must be based on a certification scheme with independent verification or be established by public authorities. For you, this means: a verified label is a better point of reference than a nice word.

Related terms briefly explained

  • Organic fashion: clothing made from fibres from organic farming, such as organic cotton or organic linen. Organic farming uses no synthetic pesticides, no chemical-synthetic fertilisers and no genetically modified seed.
  • Fair fashion: the term refers to working conditions in the supply chain, i.e. wages, working hours and safety. It isn't protected either. Only details verified by an independent body are reliable.
  • Slow fashion: an alternative to fast-changing collections. Buy less, choose more deliberately and wear clothes for a long time.
  • Eco fashion: another umbrella term that mainly emphasises environmental aspects. Here too, it's worth looking at the specific details.
  • Circular fashion: clothing designed so that the material can be reused or recycled after it has been worn.

Criteria you can look out for

Material

What is the piece made of? Organic cotton, linen, wool, wood-based fibres such as TENCEL™ Lyocell or LENZING™ ECOVERO™, or recycled fibres such as recycled polyester each have their own properties and production methods. You can read more about the difference between organic and conventional cotton in our cotton guide.

Proof

A material name alone is not proof. Only a certificate shows that the share of organic or recycled fibres has been checked along the supply chain.

Origin and transparency

Where was the piece sewn? Does the brand name the specific place of production, or does it stick to general wording? The more precise the information, the better you can put it into context.

Durability and care

A piece you wear for many years replaces several new purchases. Good workmanship, timeless cuts and the right care therefore play a big role.

The most important labels compared

What is verified?
GOTSTextiles made from organic natural fibres: at least 95 % organic fibres for the "organic" label, at least 70 % for "made with organic". Plus requirements on chemicals in processing and minimum social criteria.
OCSOrganic Content Standard: verifies the share of organic fibres and tracks it through the supply chain. It contains no requirements on chemical processing.
GRSGlobal Recycled Standard: verifies recycled content and also sets social, environmental and chemical requirements for processing.
RCSRecycled Claim Standard: verifies and tracks the share of recycled material, without further processing criteria.
RWSResponsible Wool Standard: requirements for animal welfare and grazing land for sheep's wool; among other things, mulesing is excluded.

Important: a label always applies to a specific product, not automatically to an entire brand. At ORGANICATION, you can see which certificate applies in the "Production" tab on the product page of each item. You'll find an overview on our Certificates page. The labels are explained in detail in our article on GOTS, OCS, GRS and RWS.

How to check claims in everyday life

  1. Read the material composition on the care label or the product page.
  2. Look for a specific label and check whether it applies to exactly this piece.
  3. See whether the place of production is named.
  4. Be careful with general words without proof, such as "environmentally conscious" or "good for nature".
  5. Ask the shop if something is unclear. Reputable retailers are happy to answer.

You'll find practical tips on making your wardrobe more conscious step by step in our 10 tips for a more conscious wardrobe.

FAQ

Is "sustainable fashion" a protected term?

No. There is no legal definition. Specific details about material, certificate and place of production are more reliable.

What is the difference between GOTS and OCS?

Both verify organic fibres. GOTS also regulates processing, such as the use of chemicals, and includes minimum social criteria. OCS only verifies the organic content.

How can I tell which label applies to a product?

On the care label or on the product page. At ORGANICATION, the information is in the "Production" tab of each item.