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Organic cotton or conventional cotton: the difference

ORGANICATION editorial teamUpdated: 16.10.20264 min read
Organic cotton or conventional cotton: the difference

Organic cotton and conventional cotton come from the same plant. The difference lies mainly in how it is grown and how that can be proven. Here you'll find out exactly what differs, what labels such as GOTS and OCS mean and what you can look out for when shopping.

At a glance

  • Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides, without synthetic fertilisers and without genetically modified seed.
  • Whether a garment really contains organic cotton is verified by independently audited standards such as GOTS or OCS.
  • Cotton feels soft and breathable – what really determines quality is the yarn, the fabric and the workmanship.

The difference starts in the field

Conventional cotton is often grown with synthetic pesticides and mineral fertilisers, and in many growing countries from genetically modified seed too. None of this is allowed in organic farming.

Instead, farms work with other methods:

  • Crop rotation: cotton alternates with other crops in the field. This prevents the soil from being drained of the same nutrients.
  • Organic fertilisation: compost and manure supply the soil with nutrients.
  • Biological pest control: beneficial insects such as ladybirds and adapted varieties help against pests.

Independent inspection bodies check whether a farm follows these rules. Incidentally, organic cotton makes up only a small share of the global cotton harvest. Because farming it takes more effort and often yields less, it is usually more expensive.

How to recognise organic cotton: GOTS and OCS

You can't see or feel how the cotton in a finished T-shirt was grown. That's why certificates are needed that trace the fibre's journey from the field to the product.

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)

GOTS covers the entire textile chain: spinning, dyeing, garment making. The standard regulates the share of organic fibre, restricts the use of chemicals in processing and includes minimum social requirements. For the label "organic", a product needs at least 95 % organic fibres; for "made with organic", at least 70 %.

OCS (Organic Content Standard)

OCS confirms the amount of organic material in a product and tracks it through the supply chain. With OCS 100 the organic share is at least 95 %; OCS Blended allows a lower share combined with other fibres. Unlike GOTS, OCS contains no requirements on chemicals or social criteria.

At ORGANICATION, a different standard applies depending on the item. You'll find which one on the product page in the "Production" tab. For an overview of all labels, see our Certificates page and the article GOTS, OCS, GRS, RWS: the certificates on our labels explained.

Organic cottonConventional cotton
Synthetic pesticides and fertilisersnot allowedcommon
Genetically modified seednot allowedwidespread in many growing countries
Inspectionindependent inspection bodies, proof via GOTS or OCSno organic inspection
Priceusually higherusually lower

Does organic cotton feel different?

To be honest: you can't tell organic cotton by feel alone. Both are cotton, so they're soft, breathable and comfortable on the skin. How a shirt feels depends mainly on the fibre length, the yarn and the type of fabric. A slub jersey looks lively and slightly irregular, a jacquard jersey has a noticeable texture, a single jersey is smooth and light.

Good examples of how fabrics differ are the basic V-neck T-shirt in slub jersey and the Henley shirt with jacquard texture, both made from 100 % organic cotton.

What to look out for when shopping

  1. Look for a specific label: "organic" without a certificate is hard to verify. Look for GOTS or OCS and the standard stated.
  2. Read the material details: does it say "100 % organic cotton" or is it a blend? Both are possible; the composition is on the care label and the product page.
  3. Pay attention to workmanship: dense knitting, clean seams and cuffs that keep their shape say more about how long a garment will last than any label.
  4. Care for it properly: low temperatures, little detergent and air drying keep cotton in shape for a long time. More on this in our care instructions.

You'll find organic cotton clothing in our collections for women and men.

FAQ

Is "Bio" cotton the same as organic cotton?

Yes. "Organic cotton" and "Bio-Baumwolle", the German term, mean the same thing: cotton from certified organic farming.

Why does organic cotton clothing often cost more?

Farming takes more effort, the yield per field is often lower, and certification along the supply chain costs extra. This is reflected in the price.

Does organic cotton shrink in the wash?

Cotton can shrink a little at high temperatures, whether organic or conventional. Wash according to the care label, ideally at a low temperature, and air dry.

Where can I see which certificate applies to an item?

On the product page in the "Production" tab. It states the standard the item is certified to.